Buy “Bosch 1587AVSP Progressor Top-Handle Jig Saw Kit – Power Jig Saws -” Online

Bosch 1587AVSP Progressor Top-Handle Jig Saw Kit

This fine tool is one of the best among all my power tools. Sturdy enough, powerful enough, and very well built in the USA by S&B Tools (My review is of my tool, purchased before year 2000 from Amazon). Newer designs from Bosch may have more power, but are NOT as well built. Even when there are a couple of better (more expensive) jigsaws in the market (like Festool), this one from Bosch is still one of the best. It suffers a little like all Top-Handle ones that lose some precision compared to the BARREL GRIP type design, which places your hand at a lower height and allows you to guide it much more precisely. The only time a Top-Handle jigsaw is a tad better, is when you do lenghty cuts that can get the motor a little hot, then the top handle could be a little more comfortable, but if precise curved cuts is your goal, the Barrel-Grip is better. Too sad Amazon did not sell the Barrel grip one when I bought it, and it is very expensive to buy the required parts from Bosch to convert mine to a barrel grip type. Otherwise, it is a very good tool that only lacks a pair of extra guides to maximize the rectilinear movement of the blade, like the very best designs do have. Recently, I was tempted to exchange it for the newer, more powerful design (again from Bosch). .. but guess what: the local repair Bosch technician that sells me blades, accesories and replacement brushes, showed me that those recently produced in China for Bosch, are much more prone to failures and premature wear, and actually showed me various worn parts he is constantly replacing on those newer models. So I’m keeping my old one!SIDE REVIEW: Bosch guide rail for 1587jigsaw (and other Bosch tools too). .. I bought the guide rail not at amazon, but from other seller. It was kept unused for a long time. Lastly, in 2010 I had the chance to make some long (about 3 and a half foot long) cuts, so I took the rail set from its original package and planned to put it to good use. Then I found that the sliding base has TOO MUCH PLAY when placed over the rail, which diminishes the precision of the cut, as the entire jigsaw-base has play on the grooves of the rail. Being a natural tinkerer myself, and a dedicated D.I.Y., I refrained to call the manufacturer and waste my time: if they designed and built this so much play into what should have NO-Play (or very little play at all), they would not be able to solve the shorcomming!, So, Okay, this a problem, so let’s fix it! On a tutorial at I found that you can make High Density Polyethylene blocks from plastic bottles. I used translucent milk jugs made from HDPE (it has a melting point around 250-300F or so). Obtaining Ultra High molecular weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) in sheet form or even Teflon would be better, but in a pinch, HDPE will suffice. The small sliding pads that I fixed to the sliding base of my Bosch rail have performed adequately, eliminating all perceived play and now my old Bosch jigsaw is able to produce very straight and terse, smooth cuts that barely need any sanding. It’s cuts rival those made with a portable circular saw equipped with a good cutting guide. JULY 2016 UPDATE: Last weekend I had the opportunity of woodworking with some friends. One of them is a professional carpenter. .. He has an equivalent power and general characteristics DeWalt jigsaw, thus I had the chance to actually compare my old 1587AVSP to his newer but otherwise similar DeWalt. Even when the DeWalt has a nominal slightly higher power, both made cuts at about the same speed. But I noticed (and my friend confirmed) that the old Bosch was noticeably smoother, vibrating much less than the DeWalt. Even when the DeWalt has an easier blade change, both of us ended preferring the Bosch over the DeWalt, thus, after more than 15 years of owning it, my Bosch continues to satisfy me. I believe it is definitely one of my favorite all time tools! Check it out!

Bosch invented the jig saw, and, with their Progressor top-handle model, they’re getting close to perfecting it. The Progressor has a nicely shaped handle, tapered where other saws are not, and a nice rubber grip that lets users (of all hand sizes) steer the tool firmly in hand. (Some toolmakers ignore ergonomics, but not Bosch–and we appreciate it.) The safety mechanism works well with the trigger, and the cut is super smooth. We like the variable-speed dial, the light weight, and the foot plate’s plastic cover, which ensures that surfaces won’t get scratched as they can by saws with metal plates. The blade-change system–if a little tricky at first–works great. No question about it, this jig saw keeps up Bosch’s reputation as one of the prime movers in the power tool industry. –Michael Shilling




Bosch 1587AVSP Progressor Top-Handle Jig Saw Kit Review


I owned the Bosch 1581vs for 20 years before it finally played out (the blade hold mechanism wore out). I looked at other brands (Dewalt, Porter Cable)but decided that the Bosch is the best series available because of blade control and balance. I looked at both the 1590 and the 1587 and had an opportunity to use them in the field before deciding. These are the best two on the market, and both have their pluses and minuses. The deciding factors for me were 2:1-Weight: The 1587 is lighter and therefore eaiser and more precise to control. I use my jig saw 60% of the time for coping joints. The weight of the 1590 makes it awkward when trying to turn and rotate as you need to do to cope with a jig saw. (I don’t use a Collins coping foot). 2-Distance from handle to blade. The 1590 has a taller handle . In addition the blade does not project quite as far as the 1587. This doesn’t make much difference until you are using the tiny scroll blade (119 bo) that i need for coping. The 1590 blade changing mechanism is just simply the best out there today. If I could have combined the two I would have given the result 6 stars! It is also very powerful. Great cabinet shop tool for cutting out sinks, etc. But for the precise work I have to do with a jig saw, I prefer the 1587. Hope this helps. -Read Reviews-

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Powerful 5 amp motor, 500-3100 SPM

Tool-free blade change system – For fast and easy blade changes

Exclusive multi-directional blade clamp mechanism – For superior blade hold

Low-vibration design – Ensures extremely smooth operation

4-Stage orbital action adjusts blade motion – To match work-piece and cutting task

The saw is extremely robust. However, there is some learning to be done on the type of blades to use for different applications. Several reviews I read about the AVSP and the AVSK pointed to the fact that people had some trouble cutting along straight lines. Well I had that problem too. Turns out I was using the wrong blade. Thinner the blade the more it tends to move away from a straight line. Especially if you are trying to use a rip fence. There is always some inclination between the blade and the longer edge of the shoe. While this does not matter much for a circular saw because any inclination in a circular blade would result in a thicker albeit straight cut, in a jigsaw this tends to turn the blade in one direction. Since the saw itself cannot turn (due to the fence), the blade starts to bend especially if it is a thinner one. So in addition to a not so straight cut, you also get a degree or two of bevel. Solution was to use a thicker blade. The second problem that I had encountered was the saw jumped quite a bit. This happens then you are trying to move the saw faster than the rate at which the blade can cut. So the solution would be to cut slower. Alternately, I found that for straight cuts, what worked best is thick progressor blades. They truly cut 3/4 or 1 inch stock like butter. Regular blades cut on a down stroke and cause the saw to jump if you are moving too fast. Progressor blades that I got with AVSP cut on the upward stroke. The saw is pulled towards the stock during the stroke keeping the shoe firmly placed on the stock. The only disadvantage is splintering. For people trying to just cut down stock it does not matter because the splintering happens either on the top or bottom depending on the type of blade used. Anti splintering insert might work. To summarize : For straight cuts for thicker stock (1″ and above) use thick progressor blades. For scrolling type applications use thinner regular blades.

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